White bulkheads?

[dahlke]

yup As you can see not a lot of the bolts are visible. That being said the right (thorough) thing to do is properly something along the lines of what Peter and Bob are describing

[Bob McGovern]

I'll probably try the overdrill/fill with epoxy method. Bob's idea with compression bushings is also great, probably the correct way to go if the bulkheads were mounted flat to the tabbing. On Sanlen the bulkheads are mounted with some filler and/or wooden wedges against the tabbing

Yeah, the tabbing isn't entirely square everywhere. Noticed similar effect on the chain locker bulkhead tabbing. I'm planning to glue the bulkheads in place this time, with lots of thickened epoxy on the existing tabbing & biaxial tape tabbing on the opposing side, then bolt thru the entire mess. On the positive side, it will never come loose. On the negative side, it will never come loose.

If you want a basic shim or backing material that will not compress, try High Pressure Laminate (Formica). It's basically thin phenolic, like G10. And it is easy to work. I feel uncertain how much of the chainplate load is meant to be carried by the fasteners in pure shear, and how much by the "friction sandwich" of chainplate/plywood/backing plate. The latter could be substantial IF the fasteners could be kept tight & the plywood didn't crush. Ah well, the rig hasn't fallen over for the first forty years; I suppose the engineering was good enough!

[Sanlen]

yup As you can see not a lot of the bolts are visible. That being said the right (thorough) thing to do is properly something along the lines of what Peter and Bob are describing

Looks nice! Are you satisfied with the paint (Multicoat)? I've ordered the same

[Sanlen]

Quick update:
Making some progress. I have now sanded all pieces that will be reused in either way - varnishing or painting white. The old "varnish" was really tough, I used 40 - 80 grit paper and it still resisted sanding
House is occupied with bits and parts
Next step is making new pieces instead of those that couldn't be reused. Fortunatly the weather is great now so I can work outside.

[Bob McGovern]

Heh heh. Looks exactly like our garage -- boat parts everywhere. Are you having difficulty with the old varnish clogging the sandpaper, Jan? It has a very low melting point, and many varnishes contain linseed oil that never quite hardens completely. It will clog most papers. Two possible solutions are mesh sanding screens and cabinet scrapers. I often use a scraper to knock off most of the old varnish before sanding. They can be a little tricky to 'tune' at first, but once you have the knack, they really take off the coating fast, with no damage to the wood beneath. (Actually, if only removing varnish rather than smoothing wood, I will skip the fine polishing step and go straight from draw file to turning the burr. The slightly serrated edge is excellent at stripping coatings.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdmYpS6nliQ

[Sanlen]

Clogging hasn't been the issue - the darn varnish is so hard it's almost like glass I wonder what Albin have used (or maybe some previous owner).
I want to remove all varnish from the bulkheads before painting them white to assure proper adhesion.

On all solid mahogany I use this scraper before sanding, but not on plywood. It works very well since all parts are removed and accessible.

[dahlke]

hmm, we must have the same interior designer All done painting and varnishing by the way


Apparently having a boat in front yard has awoken some dormant hoarding tendencies